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It's been a long time since my last entry - I'm not sure how I will catch you all up on what's happened if I don't do a nutshell version. Here goes...
Mandazi are the east african equivalent of a donut...not sure if I've told you this yet or not...but they're less sweet and chewier and just better. My friend Joseph is a professional mandazi maker. The other weekend he taught me how to make them and let me watch as he prepared a batch for sale. It's a very satisfying process of roll dough, cut wedges of dough, fry in oil, let cool and drain, and then eat! After that we went to the national museum of Kenya. It's a good museum with, for example, more stuffed birds than you can shake a stick at. They also have good contemporary art, cultural artifacts and a great temp. exhibit on asian-africans in Kenya - their history and accomplishments.
A couple weekends ago now, me, Nicole, and Camille (a med student at UPENN, from Trinidad, who's doing an internship here for the summer) went to Nakuru, a city north of Nairobi, to visit the families of our friends Jabez and Elijah. We took the 2 hour bus ride up with Jabez and as we came into the city he pointed out the hospital where he was born, his old primary school, and as we got off the bus he was already saying hello to people he knew. We walked over to the place where some of his family now lives - he's one of 8 kids and his parents now live in Kisumu - so those that were there were two of his sisters, one of his brothers, and his 4-year-old niece. After visiting, we went out with Jabez to his favorite club in Nakuru. He's a DJ and a rapper, and to see him in his element there with all his friends was too good. The guy who showed Jabez the ropes of DJ-ing, his friend (you'll never believe this name...) DJ Jazzy Jeff, was in the cockpit spinning that night, which was extra fun.
 On Sunday we met up with Elijah and two of his friends and a borrowed car so we could get up to his house. I didn't realize before we set out what an adventure we were in for...after buying gifts for his family it took (no joke!) 2 hours to travel the 20 kms (12.4 miles) to his family's home. The road up this big hill was in such terrible condition that it took that long for Joseph, who drove, to navigate it in such a way that his car wouldn't be completely damaged. It was all worth it to arrive at our destination - Elijah's mom was there as well as several of his siblings (he's from a family of 11 kids). The house, or homestead I should say, was beautiful!! there were 3 houses, a house for the kitchen, a field for the sheep, goats and cow, and amazing gardens growing all their food. Let me say it again - amazing! And it was up in the hills, nice and cool, and at one point it rained (hard!) for about a half-hour. His family had cooked us visitors the best meal I think I've ever eaten. As with the other best-meal-I-think-I've-ever-eaten a couple weeks before this, this one was made of foods that I would've invented for myself to eat. Chapati, mandazi, mokimo, and an african stew. All made from ingredients from their farm. Oh, and all the sweet chai you could drink. I ate so slowly just to savor it all.
 A few neighbors came over to meet Nicole, Camille and I. One of them, Mr. Nefert, had opened a primary school 3 years ago, right down the road. After digesting enough to walk, we all took a short stroll down there to see the school. As we approached it I could hear kids singing and as we walked up the drive I could see these students in their purple uniforms animatedly singing together - FOR US!!! I can honestly say I've never had a group sing in my honor before - it was very moving. Mr. Nefert had Camille, Nicole and I introduce ourselves to the students, and then they sang AGAIN for us! It was all too good.
I don't know how we made it down that road back to Nakuru, cos it was dark for most of the trip, but we did finally, and then headed back for the big city.
- Marta
August 2, 2002 • Nairobi, Kenya
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